June 17, 2014 – Levanto – Cinque Terra: Vernazza.

From my journal:
A beautiful, sunny day for our last full one in Italy. 🙂 After coffees in our our room (still to ourselves), we had a second one at the corner.

Then walked up to the castle, down to the boat dock, back up via the San Andrea church to the ostello. Saw the ducklings. Packed for the beach and returned to the boat dock area of the beach. Had inquired about a boat-snorkeling tour, but had to wait. Sat, went in the water. Back to fococciarria for the rest of our lunch. Ate in the park. Called, tour a no-go.

Levanto: Medieval walls and streets.

Levanto Castle, 13th Century.

Levanto: Sant’ Andrea church.

Levanto: Sant’ Andrea church, 13th century.

Levanto: A gate in the medieval city wall.

Levanto.

Took a nap and caught 2:30 boat for Vernazza. Looked about, walked through the rock to the beach, gelato cone in hand.
Gelato Day 16: I had a cone with a new flavor: chocolate with dark chocolate chunks and hazelnuts. Pure awesomeness.

We sat, went in the water, and sat and dried off.

We went up to the Castello Doria. On the way up we saw a place that looked great for dinner, opening at 7:00. Down below we met John & Janie D. from Colorado taking some pictures and she and I talked about her camera.

Vernazza.

Vernazza.

Vernazza.

Vernazza.

Vernazza: In the castle.

Vernazza.

Vernazza.

 After the Castle we saw them again and met their kids. We walked back up for dinner with a terrific view. Shrimp with tomato sauce, lasagna al pesto, and salad. Then dessert. A large family that came while we were eating found maggots in their antipasto and left. We did not find any maggots in our food and were quite happy.

Vernazza: the view from dinner.

We were going to stay until after dark to see the town lit up, but chose instead to take the 9:30 train back to Levanto.

Beautiful, perfect last day in Italy!

June 16, 2014 – Levanto – Cinque Terra: Riomaggiore – Manarola – Monterosso

From my journal:
Coffees in our room. Caught train to Riomaggiore. Met NY couple on train. Walked Riomaggiore...

Riomaggiore.

Riomaggiore.

…took boat to Manarola. Walked up to church and took the vineyard stroll. Very nice. Bought tickets to Ventimiglia (for the next leg, to France). Took train to Monterosso; it was 35 minutes late.

Manarola. The Vineyard Walk.

Manarola. The Vineyard Walk.

Manarola.

Manarola. The Vineyard Walk.

At Monterosso we walked the Promenade, explored a WW2 German ‘pill box,’ a small gun bunker.

Gelato Day 15: I had a small cup, one-half Mandarino (orange), one-half chocolate, a favorite flavor combination of mine – a home run!

Monterosso.

Monterosso.

I am tempted by a Burgar & The Fried.

Monterosso: The WW2 German Pill Box.

Monterosso: from inside the pill box.

Monterosso.

Train back to Levanto. Dinner at Bar Nadio on the beach. Pasta with pesto, pasta penne with pomodoro, a slice of spinach and ricotta torta and a big salad.

Walked on the beach. Explored back streets with two old churches. Back to ostello.

Levanto. Everyone is watching the World Cup. Except us.

Levanto.

Levanto.

Levanto.

Levanto.

Levanto: Our hostel to the left, a former monastery.

June 15, 2014 – Levanto.

We missed out on Lakes Como & Maggiore when we missed two trains in Bolzano. This gave us a day to rest before we saw the Cinque Terra. We didn’t think of Levanto as a destination; it was a base from which to see the Five Towns, but we loved it there.

From my journal:
Rested in Levanto. Walked around, bought food, emailed Mom, called Elyse, and Dad & Jane (Father’s Day), planned the next leg of the trip (France). Very nice. Mostly recuperating. Weather cloudy but not too cold. No dorm-mates – room to ourselves. Dinner: gnocchi/”fish.”

Gelato Day 14: Laura had a late night cup (9:30) of Caramel, Kiwi & Ricotta (all 1 flavor). I tasted it but did not like.

Levanto.

Levanto.

Levanto.

Levanto.

Levanto.

Levanto.

June 13, 2014 – Schern – Casteltotto – Bolzano.

For our descent we took the trail on the other side of Schlern from where we went up.

From my journal:
We ate breakfast and started for Monte Pez about 8:15. Enjoyed the view , took some pictures, and returned about 9:15.

I posted a couple of pictures of this on yesterday’s entry, the ones with the cross, and looking down on the hostel.

Left at 9:30 with Reiner & Barbara (biologist and immunologist @ U. of Bonn), and Karin, a freelance writer from Sweden. We pulled ahead and stopped for coffees at Sessel Schwaige, 10:50-11:25. When Reiner and Barbara arrived they told us Karin had turned back for another trail…

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent. Our stop at Sessel Schwaige.

It was a long walk down the other side from where we had ascended, but easier and just as beautiful, and offering forest streams and lakes. We ate at a restaurant at the lake, Völser Weiher, 2:15-3:00.

Schlern: the descent.

Toward Siusi from Völser Weiher.

Church of San Valentino (St. Valentin), Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm).

Bolzano: Double rainbow.

Bolzano.

We walked further toward Siusi and caught a bus arriving Castelrotto 4:00 to pick up Laura’s pack from Hotel Wolf. At 4:30 caught  bus to Bolzano, arr. 5:20.

Missed train to Como by ONE MINUTE. Next one gets us there at midnight, after the ferries have stopped running. So we decided (had) to get a hotel room in Bolzano. Directions from Google and the hotel both failed us so it took us some 2 hours to find it. Exhaustion from the hike and deficit of sleep raised our frustration. After checking in we split a pizza nearby. We had bought tickets for the 6:25 am to Verona. We hoped we would have an easier time getting to the station.

June 12, 2014 – Castelrotto to Schlern.

We left Castelrotto at 11 am. Trailhead 11:30. Saltner Hütte 1:00. Left Saltner Hütte 1:30. Schlernhus 4:15.

Bus to Suisi. Cable car to Compatsch. Started out at 11:30. Break for coffees, 1:00-1:30 at Saltner Hütte.

This trail was described by the hostel as “the ‘tourist trail’ and should present no difficulties.” The first part, over rolling hills and an easy ravine was fine. But when we hit the switchback ascent to Schlern – which included crossing some patches of remaining (melting and slick) snow – it was arduous.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

We’re gonna walk to the top of THAT. The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The hard part.

The hike to Schlern. The hard part. Rick Steves didn’t mention this.

The hike to Schlern.

The hike to Schlern.

The time on the sign is 3 hrs 10 min. We arrived at Schlernhus at 4:15 after almost 5 hours. Thankfully we had no injuries and were not especially sore, but it was definitely beyond our level of conditioning – and air thinness left us winded every few minutes.

Video: Reaching the top of Schlern.

Schlern: our hostel! Schlernhaus.

Schlern: Schlernhaus.

Schlern: Schlernhaus.

Schlern: the cross on Monte Pez, above Schlernhaus.

We laid down, before dinner – Laura slept but I did not.

We had great company at dinner, and we lingered long after we’d eaten, until we started turning in.

No showers, no hot water. Before turning in, Laura and I watched a thunder storm over the mountains behind us, from a hall window. Awesome.

June 11, 2014 – Venice to Castelrotto.

From my journal:
Travel day. Easy morning. Breakfast – not really; coffees and pastries. Nice visit with Mark & Carmel from Sydney, 60-ish couple on 13-month trip around the world.

Shopped for groceries. Picked up our packs and caught the train to Bolzano via Verona (3 hours).

Afternoon coffees, bus to Castelrotto (50 min), gorgeous little alpine town. So Austrian it’s like we got an extra country added to our trip for free.

Checked into Hotel Wolf. Walked the town, including an amazing little cemetery with World Wars dead memorial. Dinner at Hexenkeller (Witch’s Cellar. The town is known for it’s witch-burning past) – great Tyrolean food and down-to-earth alpine atmosphere. Local beer – Antonius. We both had pork cutlet with mushroom sauce and salad bar. Mmm!

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto. Our hotel.

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto. A cemetery.

Castelrotto. A cemetery.

Castelrotto. This memorial is for Italians and Germans of WW2. I think.

Castelrotto. A cemetery.

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto. Gelatomania.

We returned after – Gelato Day 11: S: Menta (mint chocolate chip), L: Dark Cherry mit Kirsh (cherry schnapps) – about 9:20.
The music was already underway, the room was packed with happy friendly Germans (actually, I should say, German-speakers, as they could be Italian, Swiss, Austrian or German) singing along to beloved folk songs. We got seats at the bar and ordered drinks. The couple next to us struck up a conversation between songs, and when the music resumed she locked arms with me and we joined in a line singers rocking form side to side as they sang. What a blast!

June 10, 2014 – Venice!

From my journal:
We decided not to hurry into Venice, as we planned to avoid crowds by staying late. So we did our laundry in the morning. Bought two 12-hour bus passes around 10:30 and took the bus from the train station out to the city.

Laura wanted to visit the smaller islands, so went first to Murano (glass factories) and from there to Burano (brightly-painted buildings and houses), and landed in the city at Fondamenta Nuove.

Gelato day 10: Burano – wonderful place – S: banana/chocolate. L: pineapple!

Venice: First view from the vaporetto.

Venice: Fountain in Murano.

Venice: a little rest in Burano.

Venice: Burano.

Venice: Burano.

Venice: Burano.

Venice: Burano.

Venice: Burano.

Walked to the Grand Canal and crossed Ponte di Rialti. Then walked east to San Polo (neighborhood) in search of one of the cheap restaurants we were told we would find there – tortellini for me, salad for Laura. Walked toward Piazzale Roma (bus station) but got on vaporetto (water bus) before we got there. I don’t know which stop it was, but what was supposed to be a fast water bus had a lot of stops and they made change boats, too. Got off at San Marco. Unfortunately the Basilica and the Doge’s Palazzo were closed, so we just enjoyed the waterfront and the Square.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice: The Doge’s Palace. The Duchess dove at the Duke just when the Duke dove at the Doge. Now the Duke ducked, the Doge dodged, and the Duchess didn’t. So the Duke got the Duchess, the Duchess got the Doge, and the Doge got the Duke.

Venice: San Marco.

Venice: San Marco.

Venice: San Marco.

Venice: San Marco.

Venice: San Marco.

Venice: San Marco.

Belissimo. Took the boat to San Giorgio, but missed our stop and got off when it came back over the Giudecca (Canal) at Zattere.

Venice: San Giorgio Maggiore.

Venice: San Giorgio Maggiore.

Venice: San Giorgio Maggiore.

Venice. View from Zattere to San Giorgio.

Venice: Santa Maria del Rosario, commonly known as I Gesuati, in Zattere.

Walked the Fondamenta a short while. Then we took the boat back to Ferrovia, and the bus back to the hostel. Venice in a day!

Video: Venice from the vaporetto.

June 3, 2014. Rome – Vatican City.

When it comes to museums, sometimes photos were allowed, often they were not. When they were permitted, usually getting a decent photo of a painting or something in a case was not possible because of low lighting or reflections. I took them anyway, because I wanted to remember what I saw.

From my journal: Late start. Breakfast down the street. Metro to Vatican City. Got into the Museum w/o standing in line, and 2 1/2 hours early.

Scuola Romana, “Il Profeta Mose,” 1120-30.

Melozzo da Forli, “Group of Angel Musicians, Groups of Cherubs and Apostles.”

Melozzo da Forli, “Group of Angel Musicians, Groups of Cherubs and Apostles.”

Il Guercino, “S. Giovanni Battista.”

Carravaggio, “Deposition.”

Detail, Carravaggio, “Deposition.”

Detail, Carravaggio, “Deposition.”

Detail, Carravaggio, “Deposition.”

Wenzel Peter, “Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden.”

Statuette of Asklepios, God of Medicine, 3rd Cent. Roman Copy.

Hall of Statuary, The Vatican Museum.

The Belvedere Apollo, 2nd Century.

Laocoon.

Sala Rotunda.

Sarcophagus of St. Helena (Mother of Constantine).

Raphael, “Deliverance of St. Peter.”

The Gallery of Maps.

The Gallery of Maps.

Sistine Chapel awed me. The hair was standing up on my arms. (No photos permitted.)

Then direct to St. Peter’s.

St. Peter’s Basilica

St. Peter’s Basilica

St. Peter’s Basilica

Swiss Guard, Vatican.

St. Peter’s Square

We started toward Castel Sant’Angelo, at a few blocks before. Nice walk along the Tiber under shade trees, to Campo de Fiore – Bruno statue, Piazza Farnese.

Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge, and Castel Sant’Angelo.

Castel Sant’Angelo

Campo de Fiore – Bruno statue

Campo de Fiore – Bruno statue

Campo de Fiore

Campo de Fiore – Bruno statue

Visited Forno bakery  to get biscotti for morning. Coffee and tiramisu at Cucina Romana.

7:30 Piazza Navona – my favorite (piazza) so far! Lively and festive. Musicians, singers, beautiful building overlooking – fantastic!  – See the video below.

Piazza Navona

Patheon – walked three quarters of the way around.

Pantheon

Pantheon, in the back where the kids hang out.

Fontana di Trevi – very crowded, stayed only briefly.

Fontana di Trevi

On to Gelato Day 4. Wonderful spot off the Fontana. My choice: Amaretto. Sweet old lady topped it off with something else – probably sweet almond. Best yet!

View from the Spanish Steps

Walked to the Spanish Steps. Caught the Metro back from there.
Video: Rome II

June 2, 2014 – Sorrento to Rome.

Please bring me my wine.

From my journal: Big day!

Went to train station early, caught the slow & dirty to Napoli, and the clean & fast to Rome by 11:10. Just a few blocks to the hostel. Dropped our bags and walked to the Coliseum.

After that the Forum, then Palatine Hill.

Colosseum.

Colosseum.

Christian martyr’s memorial, Colosseum.

Colosseum.

Colosseum.

Temple of Romulus

Temple of Antoninus & Faustina.

Santi Luca e Martina church designed by Pietro da Cortona

Arch of Septimius Severus.

Arch of Septimius Severus , with Santi Lucia e Martina church designed by Pietro da Cortona behind it.

The Temple of Vespasian and Titus.

The Temple of Castor and Pollux.

House of the Vestals

Statue of Flavia Publicia in the House of the Vestals.

Arch of Titus.

Arch of Titus.

Detail, Arch of Titus.

Palatine Hill.

Palatine Hill.

Stadium, Palatine Hill.

Tried to nap on a patch of grass on the trail down the Hill to Via S. Grigoria. Too much traffic. Walked back to the hostel for siesta, and ate at Alfredo’s at 7 (spaghetti carbonara & ravioli).

Then caught the Metro to Piazza di Popolo, and walked the length of the Via del Corso. Then back to the hostel by 10:30. Whooped!

Via del Corso, looking toward Piazza del Popolo.

Piazza del Popolo.

Via del Corso.

St. Ambrose of Milan. Trying not to blame him for Augustine’s mistakes.

The Forum at night.

The Forum at night. Augustus Caesar.

The Forum at night.

PS Gelato Day 3: shared a small pistachio on del Corso. Different than what we know in the States; less sweet, nuttier. Delicioso!

Video: Rome I