June 9, 2014 – Ravenna & Venice.

From my journal:
Monday.
Train to Ravenna via Bologna. We checked our packs there and connected to Ravenna.

So glad I chose to take a day for this place, a trove of early Christian art and architecture. Also, it embodied in its designs the conflict between conciliar Christianity and Arianism. The mosaic, too, is the perfect art for Christian expression: small, broken, fragmentary pieces are chosen, shaped, and carefully placed into a unified, beautiful whole, to create the image of God incarnate and his people. In short – the church.

Here is what we saw and did today (just in Ravenna):

1. The Arian Baptistry – with a nude Jesus being baptized.
2. Piazzo di Popolo.
3. Ate piadinas. First time.
4. Saw the Tomb of Dante.
5. Piazza Garibaldi, with memorials to WW2 dead, including Jewish victims of the Nazis.
6. Walked through the covered market.
7. Basilica di San Vitale.
8. The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia.
9. Piazza J. F. Kennedy.
10. Macchiato & cappuccino.
11. The Neonian Baptistry (Also Arian, also had nude Christ being baptized).
12. Basilica di San Francesco (Note what a Franciscan interior looks like compared to a St. Peter’s or one of the Duomos. Point made.).
13. Basilica di Sant’Apollinare, with both Arian and Byzantine (Nicene) mosaics.

– All in less than five hours!

Ravenna.

Ravenna: Dante’s tomb.

Ravenna: This is where Dante’s actual remains were accidentally discovered in a church wall in 1865.

Ravenna: Memorial to Jews who died fighting and resisting the fascists in WW2.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Dome with 18th Century baroque frescoes.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Scenes and people from the Hebrew Bible.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Scenes and people from the Hebrew Bible.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Emperor Justinian and his retinue.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.18th Century baroque frescoes.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Empress Theodora and her retinue.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. St. Lawrence in triumph.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Vault decoration, “The Garden of Eden.”

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Looking up at the dome, the original “Starry Night.”

Ravenna.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry. The baptism of Christ, surrounded by the Apostles.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry. Apostles.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Francesco.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Francesco. Ancient floor mosaic of the crypt submerged in water.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Francesco. Franciscan simplicity.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Palace of Theodoric.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Holy Virgins.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Palace of Theodoric. Notice the leftover hands and arms on the columns.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Holy Martyrs.

Train back to Bologna, then onto Venice. We walked the wrong way from the Venice station – to Mestre. Then came back, went the other way, to Maghera, and found our hostel, the Columbo Hotel. Very tired, and not looking forward to the dorm, and not remembering what our reservation was – we almost danced when we were told we had our own room!

June 8, 2014 – Firenze!

From my journal:
We plan to see as much of this magnificent city as we can – in one day.

I guess this is the place to say this was among the biggest mistakes in our my planning: a mere evening and a day to see one of the great cities of the world. I would have easily traded a day in another city for for a second one here: Venice, Nice, even Barcelona.

Breakfast was meager and the coffees came from a machine 😦 . Thought of attending (protestant) services, but the internet was splotchy and we couldn’t find English services that suited us. We bused to San Marco: stepped into church and Mass was underway, then went next door to the Museum, in an old monastery. Paintings & frescoes by Fra Angelico. The cells of Savonarola.

Walked to Palazzo Medici-Ricardi and toured.

Florence: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi.

Florence: Courtyard, Palazzo Medici Riccardo.

Florence: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi.

Florence: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi.

Florence: “Madonna of Palazzo Medici-Riccardi,” Filippo Lippi.

Florence: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi. Ceiling fresco by Luca Giordano, 1684-6.

Florence: Palazzo Medici Riccardo.”Orpheus enchanting Cerberus,” Baccio Bandinelli.

Florence: Palazzo Medici Riccardo. Detail, “Orpheus enchanting Cerberus,” Baccio Bandinelli.

Walked to Medici Chapels – closed.

Walked to the Duomo. Long line. Giotto’s Tower – Campanile – passed. Walked around the Duomo. On the shady side:

Gelato Day 9: Very good! Ate in the shadow of the Duomo – literally. Melon (cantaloupe) and strawberry.

Florence: The Duomo.

Florence: The Duomo.

Florence: The Duomo.

Florence: Gelato at he Duomo.

Florence: The Duomo.

Bronze doors on the Baptistry.

Florence: Bronze doors of the Baptistry.

Florence: Bronze doors of the Baptistry.

Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria.

Went to the Galleria degli Uffizi and they let us in. It was 2:00 and we were slated for 3:15. Magnificent. Botticelli, DaVinci, Lippi, Caravaggio.

Before and after, I walked the courtyard (statues of great Florentines).

Florence: Lion Not Thinking Outdoor David is that Big of a Deal, Piazza della Signoria.

Florence: Courtyard of Galleria degli Uffizi.

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Botticelli, “Madonna and Cjild with six angels.” “Madonna of the Pomegranate.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Botticelli, Madonna with Saints Mary Magdalene…” Detail.

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Anonymous, “Virgin and Child with St. Anne.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Sanseverino, “Lamentation over the Body of Christ.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Il Francia, “Portrait of Evangelista Scappi.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Boccaccino, “Zingarella.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Carravaggio, “Testa di Medusa.” (Parade shield)

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Carlo Dolci, “Virgin of the Annunciation.”

Florence: Courtyard of Galleria degli Uffizi.

Florence: Palazzo Vecchio.

Florence: Piazza della Signoria.

We walked the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio, but did not go up. Selfie on the Piazza. Crossed the Arno over Ponte Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti, another superb museum, as well as brilliant residence from the times of the Lorraines and Napoleon. They rushed us out at the end, as it was closing time.

Florence: Along the Arno.

Florence: The apartment where Dostoevsky lived while writing “The Idiot.”

Florence: The apartment where Dostoevsky lived while writing “The Idiot.”

Florence: Palazzo Pitti.

Florence: Palazzo Pitti.

Florence: Palazzo Pitti. Closing time.

I had a problem that made walking acutely painful and got worse the more I walked. We walked back to the river, and the Ponte Santa Trinita, and there caught a bus to the Stazione. We decided the walking involved in busing the rest of the way was too much, so we took a taxi. By far the most expensive day so far. But also the best food, best gelato, and best museums! Florence did not disappoint; it’s an incredible city.

June 7, 2014 – Siena – Florence.

From my journal: We were up and ready early. Breakfast at 7:00. We walked to the old city, just inside the gate, and saw the Sanctuary of St. Catherine, the Campo Piazza, the Public (civic) Building.

I climbed the Torre – spectacular!

We sat in a ristorante on the Piazza and  got some spaghetti.

Chalk Art, Italian Style. Siena.

Siena.

Sanctuary of St. Catherine, Siena.

Sanctuary of St. Catherine, Siena.

View from Campo Piazza, Siena.

Campo Piazza, Siena.

The Doumo, Siena.

View from the Torre, Siena.

View from the Torre, Siena.

Duomo – View from the Torre, Siena.

The Torre & Public Building, Siena.

Campo Piazza, Siena.

Walked the Duomo, and self-toured inside.

The Duomo, Siena.

The Duomo, Siena.

The Duomo, Siena.

Siena.

Decorated vault, Siena.

We walked past San Domenico (closed) and caught a bus to the train station . Ran to catch the 2:00 and made it!

In Florence! Took bus #11 to the end of the line and unexpectedly walked a road that went right into a wooded area with no homes. Ten minutes later we reached the hostel, home to an important Florentine family – est. in the 1460s (the villa, that is) and reaching its current shape about 1700. Amazing.

The woods between our hostel and town, Florence.

Our hostel in Florence.

Our hostel in Florence.

Our hostel in Florence.

Our hostel in Florence.

Restaurants were closed until 7:00 so we walked until we found an open kebab joint (The most prevalent fast food in Europe) where a Pakistani-Italian made us dinner.

Gelato Day 8: Right before taking the road back to the ostello. “I hope this is the worst gelato I ever eat.” It was the end of the week and the end of all but a few flavors. They sold us half tiramisu 😦 and half coffee :-).

About 6:30 walked back to the hostel, where an 8th grade graduation party was just starting at 8:00. At 10:30 it sounds like it’s still going strong. Eye shades and ear plugs tonight. 🙂 z z z z z z z z z …

June 6, 2014 – Orvieto – Montepulciano – Siena.

Our room was actually a bedroom in a house. Our host set this table the next morning. ⇒

From my journal: We took a bus up to Orvieto and walked the town.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Clock Tower, Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Clock Tower, Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Video: Getting some food at the deli in Orvieto, where Laura’s Spanish has limited success, but gets the job done.

We took the streetcar back, which dropped us right at the train station, where we took the train to Montepulciano.

Well, almost. The scala. It’s actually ten miles from Montepulciano. We realized that taking the bus to Montepulciano and back in time to catch the train to Siena would leave no time to see Montepulciano. We decided we would take the bus from M. to Siena directly, which would give us plenty of time.

This was a great little town, and worth the trip. Highlights: the views. the Fortezza, Palazzo, clock tower.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Montepulciano.

Gelato Day 7: On the way from Orvieto to M. we had to change trains in Chiusi. We found a “Cucina Cinese” which I don’t think had one Chinese item, but the two young people working the counter were Chinese-Italians, I think. We had a small cup with white chocolate (L) and biscotti (me).

We arrived in Siena and walked to hostel, unsure of our directions, getting there just four minutes ahead of the cut-off time. An old house (?) with 10 ft. ceilings and access from our room to a yard. After resting we walked through the gate (in the medieval city wall) – Porta Comollia – and had a drink on the small piazza there.

Porta Comollia, Siena.

Siena. “Fruits & Vegetables.”

Evening in Siena.

June 5, 2014 – Rome to Orvieto.
From my journal: Arrivaderci, Roma!

Breakfast again at the hostel.
Poor night’s sleep owing to:
•A howling cat (Imagine microphone feedback from the Bowels of Hell. Reminder: find out what the deal is with cats in Rome.),
•late night revelers,
•music,
•and um…
The people next door were fully and noisily overtaken by the romance of The Eternal City.
Awkward.

First class train to Orvieto – 10:30. Rome is amazing and wonderful and we saw so much! If I were to spend more time here, I would hang out in the piazzas, and discover more. So much fun and life there. They have been an unexpected delight for me, and I look forward to more piazzas!

Arrived in Orvieto Scala (the modern town) about 11:30. Caught 12:55 bus to Civita di Bagnoregio. Before it came we dropped our packs at a hotel a few blocks away (per Rick Steves) for € 1 each. Then Laura bought us gelato from the train station cafe…

Gelato Day 6:
It was called Mochachino. At the first couple of tastes, I was underwhelmed, because the flavor seemed weak, but as endeavored to discern the mocha and the cappuccino, I began to appreciate the subtlety of the flavors. I am used to strong flavoring and most gelatos I have had so far are rich. So this may have been a poor gelato, or it may have been intentionally subtle, but i enjoyed it all the same.

Citvita was beautiful and amazing! Our first primarily medieval location, with remnants of its Etruscan origins.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoreggio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

3:25 bus back to town (Orvieto), then another to our hostel – after rushing to fetch our packs. Our first (and one of few) private rooms. ♥.

The view from our room in Orvieto.

After checking in, we shared a pizza at a neighborhood place. While we were praying a man two tables away was watching us. We tried to do an Italian crossword puzzle on the paper place-mats. He came over and showed us a homemade flier, taking to us in Italian. We thought he was trying to sell us his personal driving services. it turned out he was asking us to correct the copy on his flier – the English was terrible. I re-wrote it and a bilingual woman at the next table translated it back into Italian for him. He was very happy. It was the first day of his new business.

June 4, 2014. Rome.

From my journal: We had put in our itinerary for today a trip north to Cerveteri, to see the Etruscan necropolis, but decided instead to spend our last day here in the city. We had a leisurely start. Breakfast at the hostel, then the Metro and bus to the Via Appia Antica. As we proceeded down the road on foot (the wrong way, it turned out), we ran out of sidewalk and followed a sign to an info center. We never found it and ended up in a suburb, farther than we wanted to walk form the Via. Just as we were about to take a taxi, a bus came that got us to within a few minutes of the San Domitilla Catacombs at 1:15 – closed until 2:00, so we went on and found the San Sabastiani Catacombs. Wow. We loved this tour which, if anything, took us too swiftly through the underground cemetery.

Coming out, we proceeded down the Via, wanting gelato but not finding any to Laura’s liking (locally made). We probably walked 2-3 miles. When we came to a  crossroads we caught a bus back to a Metro stop.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Mailbox along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

It turned out to be in Laurentia, where the gift shop lady told us the Tre Fontane Abbey was. With her directions we found it and visited the church which supposedly marks the spot of St. Paul’s martyrdom.

Tre Fontane Abbey

The Avenue, Tre Fontane Abbey.

San Paolo alle Tre Fontane (St Paul at the Three Fountains), Tre Fontane Abbey.

Mosaic pavement in San Paolo alle Tre Fontane (St Paul at the Three Fountains), Tre Fontane Abbey.

Tre Fontane Abbey

Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio, Tre Fontane Abbey.

Santa Maria Scala Coeli, Tre Fontane Abbey.

We returned to Termini, ate at Alfredo’s again (shared a pizza), and went to the hostel. After doing our laundry and getting some of our things ready to go, we went out for gelato.

Gelato Day 5: a chain store called L’Orso Bianco (White Bear). Okay, which means: pretty darn good. If I ever eat a bad gelato, stop the presses. We doubled up this time: Laura chose sour cherry; I chose dark chocolate. The latter was put on top of the former, and made a good combination.

Video: Rome III