60 Days in Europe: Day 24 / June 22

Posted on June 22, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 22, 2014 – Llanca – Barcelona.

Video: Church bells in the Llanca town square.

From my journal:
We went to Jessie’s, had coffee and tea, collected our laundry. Jessie and Nico drove us to the train station. Ticket machine was out of order, so we bought them on the train. Distance was farther than we realized, but we got the fast one – 2 hours, 4 minutes.

We went to the car rental in Barcelona, got the car, left our packs in it. Walked the Ramblas. Saw the Cathedral, Roman necropolis, Roman columns, Plaça Reial, Gaudi House, Maritime Museum. Took us about 2 hours to figure our where our hostel was and close to another 2 hours to drive there. 😦 Ate about 10:00 at a neighborhood place.

Single biggest mistake of our entire trip: not getting a GPS on our car in Spain.

Barcelona: The Roman Necropolis.

Barcelona: Bridge in Barri Gotic.

Barcelona: The Cathedral.

Barcelona.

Barcelona: Plaça Reial.

Barcelona: Gaudi House.

Schindler’s Lift.

Video: The Barcelona skyline from our hostel.

60 Days in Europe: Day 23 / June 21

Posted on June 21, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 21, 2014 – Carcassone – Figueres – Llanca.

Today Laura returned to Spain after 35 years. The folks in Figueres were nice enough to give her a warm welcome:

From my journal:
Caught bus to station for 10:30 train to Figueres (Spain).

Dali Museum: fabulous. The whole range of his career and work in all media. Brilliant.

The Museum was designed by Dali and he oversaw its construction. This included works done just for the Museum.

Figueres: The Dali Museum.

You’re lookin’ swell, Dali.

Figueres: The Dali Museum.

Figueres: The Dali Museum. “Picasso in the 21st Century.”

Figueres: The Dali Museum. “Soft Self Portait.”

Figueres: The Dali Museum. Study for “The Battle of Tetuan.”

Figueres: The Dali Museum. “Sylvère Godéré.”

Figueres: The Dali Museum.

I went in by myself. We arranged to afterward meet Jessie, Laura’s childhood friend from her years in Mallorca (1976-79). Jessie is an ex-pat American who has spent most of her life in Spain.

Met Jessie afterward, at 3:00. She drove us to her home in Llanca, a seaside village. Walked us to our hostel, then we walked to her apartment on the square, right across from the church and the old bell tower. Met Nico (Jessie’s partner) and Dario, their son.

Went to the beach and swam. Back to the hostel then to the apartment for dinner and dessert. We talked a long while about the question of Catalunyan independence. They plan a referendum in November, which the Spanish government has said it will not recognize, and has insisted not take place. As a native Catalan, Nico is conflicted about the question. He understands, and at times shares the sentiments behind independence (I notice how he always refers to Spain as if it were a different country).

Nico talked about his father, a strong anti-Spain, Catalan patriot who endured decades under the Fascist suppression of Catalunyan culture and freedom.

He also has misgivings about the consequences of independence. I appreciated hearing such a nuanced perspective from someone to whom it is an important but complex issue.

Jessie & Nico put out a beautiful spread of food for both dinner and dessert.

Llanca: Jessie& Nico.

Llanca. Catching up after 35 years.

Llanca. Discussing the Catalunyan Independence Referendum.

Llanca.

After eating we went on a late night walk to the waterfront.

Llanca. Midnight stroll.

60 Days in Europe: Day 22 / June 20

Posted on June 20, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 20, 2014 – Nice – Carcassonne.

From my journal:
Awake at 6:00. Our train was supposed to depart at 7:25. Last night we went to the train station before dinner and printed our tickets. Apparently there is a train strike of some sort that is causing random delays and cancellations. A staff person told us our train would leave at 7:36 instead. This morning we were told it was cancelled, and to get aboard a train for Paris that would stop in Marseilles. Immediately. (7:30).

Stops: Cannes, Les Arcs-Draguignan, Toulon.

Marseilles: deboarded and immediately boarded our connection at the platform, 10:20.

Stops: Nîmes (11:25), Montpelier (11:49), Sète (12:09), Béziers (12:34), Narbonne (12:55), arr. Carcassonne, 1:30.

Took Petit Bus to the Cíte, which was the culmination of all of Laura’s hopes and dreams for our stay in France. Carcassonne was fantastic. Our hostel was right in the middle of the town, just down from the chateau gate.

Carsassonne: Through the Narbonne Gate.

Carsassonne: Our hostel.

Carsassonne.

Carsassonne: The Chateau.

Carsassonne.

Checked in, then walked the town, per R. Steves. We saw the entry to the Chateau but decided not to go in. But when we saw the ramparts by the Narbonne Gate & talked to the attendant there, we changed our minds, went back and toured it and the ramparts. Good decision! Excellent view of the town, and information about its history, excavation, and restoration.

Carsassonne.

Carsassonne: The ramparts.

Carsassonne.

We laid down on our beds. I slept well, Laura not at all. We ate at a kebab place, foregoing the nicer Italian and French cuisine offered at more expensive places in town.

We walked up and down some of the roads south of The Narbonne Gate – Chemin de Anglais and Chemin de Ourtets. Saw the cemetery (closed). Walked up Via Medievale and found an olive orchard/farm. But we did not find the the outer view of the city we were looking for. Walked back through the Narbonne Gate and the city to the Port D’Ande at the rear. Down a cobbled path/ramp to the streets below, then to the Pont Vieux.

Carsassonne.

Carsassonne.

Went across the river for nightfall. Then went back across the bridge The view was fantastic, though I couldn’t get a decent photo. We took an easier way back, by a street around the the north side the Narbonne Gate. Lovely.

Carsassonne.

Carsassonne: Through the Narbonne Gate at night.

“I promised you magic.”

IMG_2648 PS edited

60 days in Europe: Day 21 / June 19

Posted on June 19, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 19, 2014 – Nice.

From my journal:
Breakfast @ hostel. Walked the Old City. Fabulous market. Laura bought lavender seeds as gifts. I bought a bar of soap.

We decided to try again to ride a bus along the Moyenne (middle) Corniche. Waited about an hour (12:30-1:30) in Place Garibaldi, but it never came. So we took one to Villefranche instead. Sunned ourselves and got in the water. Very nice.

Villefranche on the French Riviera.

We had bought some food to cook before we went and left it at the hostel. When we got back we fixed ourselves dinner in the kitchen. Then, went for a walk again.

The hostel lies between the train station and the Old City. We went to Place Massena. They were having a series of evening concerts with three bands per night, called “Crazy Week.” We listened to a hard-rocking group with catchy guitar riffs called “Nothing.”

Got dessert nearby: lemon & sugar crepe, and pistachio/hazelnut milkshake. The second band was up, singing a song about vampires. As they say, write about what you know.

Back at the hostel, we turned in early, about 9:30, as we have an early train. Went to sleep about 10:15, and had wild dreams about getting lost amid steep streets and railroads that were crumbling.

60 days in Europe: Day 20 / June 18

Posted on June 18, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 18, 2014 – Levanto – Monte Carlo – Nice.

From my journal:
Packed and caught 11:00 train to Genoa. Then to Ventamiglia, last station in Italy.

Short connection to Monte Carlo. Walked up the Rampe to the old city. The Prince’s Palace, the St. Martin’s gardens, then to the Oceanographic Museum. It was amazing. By far the best museum of this sort (aquarium) that we have ever seen. World class. Then we walked back down to the Rock, where we tried to catch a bus to Nice via the Moyenne Corniche Rd. Driver told us it was done for the day, so we jumped on the #100. It takes the Lower Corniche.

Got to Nice about 8:00 and went to the hostel. Had a great dinner Bollywood Indian Restaurant, with e most charming server. Discussed favorite Bollywood movies, stars. (She was thrilled that we knew some Indian movies.) She recommended a newer Pakistani film, “Bol.”

Update: A few weeks ago, in transcribing this, I was reminded of the lovely woman’s tip. So I found the movie at a library and brought it home. It was very disturbing, with dark overtones about rape and sexual abuse of children and teenagers. And then of course everyone breaks out in song. We didn’t finish it.

60 days in Europe: Day 19 / June 17

Posted on June 17, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 17, 2014 – Levanto – Cinque Terra: Vernazza.

From my journal:
A beautiful, sunny day for our last full one in Italy. 🙂 After coffees in our our room (still to ourselves), we had a second one at the corner.

Then walked up to the castle, down to the boat dock, back up via the San Andrea church to the ostello. Saw the ducklings. Packed for the beach and returned to the boat dock area of the beach. Had inquired about a boat-snorkeling tour, but had to wait. Sat, went in the water. Back to fococciarria for the rest of our lunch. Ate in the park. Called, tour a no-go.

Levanto: Medieval walls and streets.

Levanto Castle, 13th Century.

Levanto: Sant’ Andrea church.

Levanto: Sant’ Andrea church, 13th century.

Levanto: A gate in the medieval city wall.

Levanto.

Took a nap and caught 2:30 boat for Vernazza. Looked about, walked through the rock to the beach, gelato cone in hand.
Gelato Day 16: I had a cone with a new flavor: chocolate with dark chocolate chunks and hazelnuts. Pure awesomeness.

We sat, went in the water, and sat and dried off.

We went up to the Castello Doria. On the way up we saw a place that looked great for dinner, opening at 7:00. Down below we met John & Janie D. from Colorado taking some pictures and she and I talked about her camera.

Vernazza.

Vernazza: In the castle.

Vernazza.

After the Castle we saw them again and met their kids. We walked back up for dinner with a terrific view. Shrimp with tomato sauce, lasagna al pesto, and salad. Then dessert. A large family that came while we were eating found maggots in their antipasto and left. We did not find any maggots in our food and were quite happy.

Vernazza: the view from dinner.

We were going to stay until after dark to see the town lit up, but chose instead to take the 9:30 train back to Levanto.

Beautiful, perfect last day in Italy!

60 Days in Europe: Day 18 / June 16

Posted on June 16, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 16, 2014 – Levanto – Cinque Terra: Riomaggiore – Manarola – Monterosso

From my journal:
Coffees in our room. Caught train to Riomaggiore. Met NY couple on train. Walked Riomaggiore...

Riomaggiore.

…took boat to Manarola. Walked up to church and took the vineyard stroll. Very nice. Bought tickets to Ventimiglia (for the next leg, to France). Took train to Monterosso; it was 35 minutes late.

Manarola. The Vineyard Walk.

Manarola.

Manarola. The Vineyard Walk.

At Monterosso we walked the Promenade, explored a WW2 German ‘pill box,’ a small gun bunker.

Gelato Day 15: I had a small cup, one-half Mandarino (orange), one-half chocolate, a favorite flavor combination of mine – a home run!

Monterosso.

I am tempted by a Burgar & The Fried.

Monterosso: The WW2 German Pill Box.

Monterosso: from inside the pill box.

Monterosso.

Train back to Levanto. Dinner at Bar Nadio on the beach. Pasta with pesto, pasta penne with pomodoro, a slice of spinach and ricotta torta and a big salad.

Walked on the beach. Explored back streets with two old churches. Back to ostello.

Levanto. Everyone is watching the World Cup. Except us.

Levanto.

Levanto: Our hostel to the left, a former monastery.

STA_2369-Pano LEVANTO

60 days in Europe: Day 17 / June 15

Posted on June 15, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 15, 2014 – Levanto.

We missed out on Lakes Como & Maggiore when we missed two trains in Bolzano. This gave us a day to rest before we saw the Cinque Terra. We didn’t think of Levanto as a destination; it was a base from which to see the Five Towns, but we loved it there.

From my journal:
Rested in Levanto. Walked around, bought food, emailed Mom, called Elyse, and Dad & Jane (Father’s Day), planned the next leg of the trip (France). Very nice. Mostly recuperating. Weather cloudy but not too cold. No dorm-mates – room to ourselves. Dinner: gnocchi/”fish.”

Gelato Day 14: Laura had a late night cup (9:30) of Caramel, Kiwi & Ricotta (all 1 flavor). I tasted it but did not like.

Levanto.

60 Days in Europe: Day 16 / June 14

Posted on June 14, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 14, 2014 – Bolzano – Milan – Levanto

From my journal:
We woke about 5:20 and left about 5:50. Even so we are soon lost. We ran about as much as we could (our legs were spaghetti) but got to the platform just as he 6:25 was zooming away. We got on a 6:36 to Verona, but it was the slow train and was not going be on time for our connection to Milan.

While riding to Verona, then Milan, we weighed whether we should push on to Lake Como, arrive late and get an additional night and thereby make the stay worth the effort (and knocking one night off our planned stay in Levanto/ Cinque Terra); OR: Scrap Como altogether (since they had never received our reservation anyway, and had offered us new location a bus ride way from Varenna) and stay tonight in Levanto instead. When we learned we could get the extra night , and it was costing us nothing to cancel Como, we opted for the latter plan.

Arrived Milano c. 11:00. With a 3-hour layover, we rode the Metro to the Duomo, the Piazza, and lunch. Departed Milano at 2:05 to Levanto.

Milan: The Duomo & the Galleria Emanuele Vittorio II in Piazza del Duomo.

Milan: Galleria Emanuele Vittorio II in Piazza del Duomo.

Milan: Fabricio Bossio Clock Tower.

Milan: The Duomo.

Arrived Levanto 5:45 and walked to hostel. Checked in, met our Aussie dorm-mates, ate calzone and raviolis down the street, had some gelato –

Gelato Day 13: Levanto. We got 1/2 chocolate and 1/2 peanut butter. Yum. Ate it sitting on the grass in the central park/piazza.

Levanto: The tower of Sant’ Andrea church, and the Castle.

Levanto: The World Cup was on. Not everyone wanted to watch. But just about.

Levanto: Ah, the market!

Walked to the beach. Didn’t go on the sand. We saw a thunderstorm out over the water. We went back when we felt a drop or two. A short while later the storm hit the town suddenly and dramatically. Laura and I haven’t seen a thunderstorm like this since our Oklahoma days. Heavy downpour. Lightning very close. It’s still storming as I write 🙂

∼On this day Italy defeated England in the World Cup, 2-1. There was a celebration throughout the land, on into the night. English tears fell like rain. Whatever.

60 Days in Europe: Day 15 / June 13

Posted on June 13, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 13, 2014 – Schern – Casteltotto – Bolzano.

For our descent we took the trail on the other side of Schlern from where we went up.

From my journal:
We ate breakfast and started for Monte Pez about 8:15. Enjoyed the view , took some pictures, and returned about 9:15.

I posted a couple of pictures of this on yesterday’s entry, the ones with the cross, and looking down on the hostel.

Left at 9:30 with Reiner & Barbara (biologist and immunologist @ U. of Bonn), and Karin, a freelance writer from Sweden. We pulled ahead and stopped for coffees at Sessel Schwaige, 10:50-11:25. When Reiner and Barbara arrived they told us Karin had turned back for another trail…

Schlern: the descent with our hostel mates.

Schlern: the descent. Our stop at Sessel Schwaige.

It was a long walk down the other side from where we had ascended, but easier and just as beautiful, and offering forest streams and lakes. We ate at a restaurant at the lake, Völser Weiher, 2:15-3:00.

Schlern: the descent.

Toward Siusi from Völser Weiher.

Church of San Valentino (St. Valentin), Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm).

Bolzano: Double rainbow.

Bolzano.

We walked further toward Siusi and caught a bus arriving Castelrotto 4:00 to pick up Laura’s pack from Hotel Wolf. At 4:30 caught bus to Bolzano, arr. 5:20.

Missed train to Como by ONE MINUTE. Next one gets us there at midnight, after the ferries have stopped running. So we decided (had) to get a hotel room in Bolzano. Directions from Google and the hotel both failed us so it took us some 2 hours to find it. Exhaustion from the hike and deficit of sleep raised our frustration. After checking in we split a pizza nearby. We had bought tickets for the 6:25 am to Verona. We hoped we would have an easier time getting to the station.

60 days in Europe: Day 14 / June 12

Posted on June 12, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 12, 2014 – Castelrotto to Schlern.

We left Castelrotto at 11 am. Trailhead 11:30. Saltner Hütte 1:00. Left Saltner Hütte 1:30. Schlernhus 4:15.

Bus to Suisi. Cable car to Compatsch. Started out at 11:30. Break for coffees, 1:00-1:30 at Saltner Hütte.

This trail was described by the hostel as “the ‘tourist trail’ and should present no difficulties.” The first part, over rolling hills and an easy ravine was fine. But when we hit the switchback ascent to Schlern – which included crossing some patches of remaining (melting and slick) snow – it was arduous.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

We’re gonna walk to the top of THAT. The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The easy part.

The hike to Schlern. The hard part.

The hike to Schlern. The hard part. Rick Steves didn’t mention this.

The hike to Schlern.

The time on the sign is 3 hrs 10 min. We arrived at Schlernhus at 4:15 after almost 5 hours. Thankfully we had no injuries and were not especially sore, but it was definitely beyond our level of conditioning – and air thinness left us winded every few minutes.

Video: Reaching the top of Schlern.

Schlern: our hostel! Schlernhaus.

Schlern: Schlernhaus.

Schlern: the cross on Monte Pez, above Schlernhaus.

We laid down, before dinner – Laura slept but I did not.

We had great company at dinner, and we lingered long after we’d eaten, until we started turning in.

No showers, no hot water. Before turning in, Laura and I watched a thunder storm over the mountains behind us, from a hall window. Awesome.

60 days in Europe: Day 13 / June 11

Posted on June 11, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 11, 2014 – Venice to Castelrotto.

From my journal:
Travel day. Easy morning. Breakfast – not really; coffees and pastries. Nice visit with Mark & Carmel from Sydney, 60-ish couple on 13-month trip around the world.

Shopped for groceries. Picked up our packs and caught the train to Bolzano via Verona (3 hours).

Afternoon coffees, bus to Castelrotto (50 min), gorgeous little alpine town. So Austrian it’s like we got an extra country added to our trip for free.

Checked into Hotel Wolf. Walked the town, including an amazing little cemetery with World Wars dead memorial. Dinner at Hexenkeller (Witch’s Cellar. The town is known for it’s witch-burning past) – great Tyrolean food and down-to-earth alpine atmosphere. Local beer – Antonius. We both had pork cutlet with mushroom sauce and salad bar. Mmm!

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto. Our hotel.

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto. A cemetery.

Castelrotto. This memorial is for Italians and Germans of WW2. I think.

Castelrotto. A cemetery.

Castelrotto.

Castelrotto. Gelatomania.

We returned after – Gelato Day 11: S: Menta (mint chocolate chip), L: Dark Cherry mit Kirsh (cherry schnapps) – about 9:20.
The music was already underway, the room was packed with happy friendly Germans (actually, I should say, German-speakers, as they could be Italian, Swiss, Austrian or German) singing along to beloved folk songs. We got seats at the bar and ordered drinks. The couple next to us struck up a conversation between songs, and when the music resumed she locked arms with me and we joined in a line singers rocking form side to side as they sang. What a blast!

60 Days in Europe: Day 12 / June 10

Posted on June 10, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 10, 2014 – Venice!

From my journal:
We decided not to hurry into Venice, as we planned to avoid crowds by staying late. So we did our laundry in the morning. Bought two 12-hour bus passes around 10:30 and took the bus from the train station out to the city.

Laura wanted to visit the smaller islands, so went first to Murano (glass factories) and from there to Burano (brightly-painted buildings and houses), and landed in the city at Fondamenta Nuove.

Gelato day 10: Burano – wonderful place – S: banana/chocolate. L: pineapple!

Venice: First view from the vaporetto.

Venice: Fountain in Murano.

Venice: a little rest in Burano.

Venice: Burano.

Walked to the Grand Canal and crossed Ponte di Rialti. Then walked east to San Polo (neighborhood) in search of one of the cheap restaurants we were told we would find there – tortellini for me, salad for Laura. Walked toward Piazzale Roma (bus station) but got on vaporetto (water bus) before we got there. I don’t know which stop it was, but what was supposed to be a fast water bus had a lot of stops and they made change boats, too. Got off at San Marco. Unfortunately the Basilica and the Doge’s Palazzo were closed, so we just enjoyed the waterfront and the Square.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice.

Venice: The Grand Canal.

Venice: The Doge’s Palace. The Duchess dove at the Duke just when the Duke dove at the Doge. Now the Duke ducked, the Doge dodged, and the Duchess didn’t. So the Duke got the Duchess, the Duchess got the Doge, and the Doge got the Duke.

Venice: San Marco.

Belissimo. Took the boat to San Giorgio, but missed our stop and got off when it came back over the Giudecca (Canal) at Zattere.

Venice: San Giorgio Maggiore.

Venice. View from Zattere to San Giorgio.

Venice: Santa Maria del Rosario, commonly known as I Gesuati, in Zattere.

Walked the Fondamenta a short while. Then we took the boat back to Ferrovia, and the bus back to the hostel. Venice in a day!

Video: Venice from the vaporetto.

60 Days in Europe: Day 11 / June 9

Posted on June 9, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 9, 2014 – Ravenna & Venice.

From my journal:
Monday.
Train to Ravenna via Bologna. We checked our packs there and connected to Ravenna.

So glad I chose to take a day for this place, a trove of early Christian art and architecture. Also, it embodied in its designs the conflict between conciliar Christianity and Arianism. The mosaic, too, is the perfect art for Christian expression: small, broken, fragmentary pieces are chosen, shaped, and carefully placed into a unified, beautiful whole, to create the image of God incarnate and his people. In short – the church.

Here is what we saw and did today (just in Ravenna):

The Arian Baptistry – with a nude Jesus being baptized.
Piazzo di Popolo.
Ate piadinas. First time.
Saw the Tomb of Dante.
Piazza Garibaldi, with memorials to WW2 dead, including Jewish victims of the Nazis.
Walked through the covered market.
Basilica di San Vitale.
The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia.
Piazza J. F. Kennedy.
Macchiato & cappuccino.
The Neonian Baptistry (Also Arian, also had nude Christ being baptized).
Basilica di San Francesco (Note what a Franciscan interior looks like compared to a St. Peter’s or one of the Duomos. Point made.).
Basilica di Sant’Apollinare, with both Arian and Byzantine (Nicene) mosaics.

– All in less than five hours!

Ravenna.

Ravenna: Dante’s tomb.

Ravenna: This is where Dante’s actual remains were accidentally discovered in a church wall in 1865.

Ravenna: Memorial to Jews who died fighting and resisting the fascists in WW2.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Dome with 18th Century baroque frescoes.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Scenes and people from the Hebrew Bible.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Emperor Justinian and his retinue.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.18th Century baroque frescoes.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale. Empress Theodora and her retinue.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale.

Ravenna.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. St. Lawrence in triumph.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia.

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Vault decoration, “The Garden of Eden.”

Ravenna: The Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Looking up at the dome, the original “Starry Night.”

Ravenna.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry. The baptism of Christ, surrounded by the Apostles.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry.

Ravenna: The Neonian Baptistry. Apostles.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Francesco.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Francesco. Ancient floor mosaic of the crypt submerged in water.

Ravenna: Basilica di San Francesco. Franciscan simplicity.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Palace of Theodoric.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Holy Virgins.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Palace of Theodoric. Notice the leftover hands and arms on the columns.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo.

Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The Holy Martyrs.

Train back to Bologna, then onto Venice. We walked the wrong way from the Venice station – to Mestre. Then came back, went the other way, to Maghera, and found our hostel, the Columbo Hotel. Very tired, and not looking forward to the dorm, and not remembering what our reservation was – we almost danced when we were told we had our own room!

60 Days in Europe: Day 10 / June 8

Posted on June 8, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 8, 2014 – Firenze!

From my journal:
We plan to see as much of this magnificent city as we can – in one day.

I guess this is the place to say this was among the biggest mistakes in ~~our~~ my planning: a mere evening and a day to see one of the great cities of the world. I would have easily traded a day in another city for for a second one here: Venice, Nice, even Barcelona.

Breakfast was meager and the coffees came from a machine 😦 . Thought of attending (protestant) services, but the internet was splotchy and we couldn’t find English services that suited us. We bused to San Marco: stepped into church and Mass was underway, then went next door to the Museum, in an old monastery. Paintings & frescoes by Fra Angelico. The cells of Savonarola.

Walked to Palazzo Medici-Ricardi and toured.

Florence: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi.

Florence: Courtyard, Palazzo Medici Riccardo.

Florence: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi.

Florence: “Madonna of Palazzo Medici-Riccardi,” Filippo Lippi.

Florence: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi. Ceiling fresco by Luca Giordano, 1684-6.

Florence: Palazzo Medici Riccardo.”Orpheus enchanting Cerberus,” Baccio Bandinelli.

Florence: Palazzo Medici Riccardo. Detail, “Orpheus enchanting Cerberus,” Baccio Bandinelli.

Walked to Medici Chapels – closed.

Walked to the Duomo. Long line. Giotto’s Tower – Campanile – passed. Walked around the Duomo. On the shady side:

Gelato Day 9: Very good! Ate in the shadow of the Duomo – literally. Melon (cantaloupe) and strawberry.

Florence: The Duomo.

Florence: Gelato at he Duomo.

Florence: The Duomo.

Bronze doors on the Baptistry.

Florence: Bronze doors of the Baptistry.

Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria.

Went to the Galleria degli Uffizi and they let us in. It was 2:00 and we were slated for 3:15. Magnificent. Botticelli, DaVinci, Lippi, Caravaggio.

Before and after, I walked the courtyard (statues of great Florentines).

Florence: Lion Not Thinking Outdoor David is that Big of a Deal, Piazza della Signoria.

Florence: Courtyard of Galleria degli Uffizi.

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Botticelli, “Madonna and Cjild with six angels.” “Madonna of the Pomegranate.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Botticelli, Madonna with Saints Mary Magdalene…” Detail.

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Anonymous, “Virgin and Child with St. Anne.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Sanseverino, “Lamentation over the Body of Christ.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Il Francia, “Portrait of Evangelista Scappi.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Boccaccino, “Zingarella.”

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Carravaggio, “Testa di Medusa.” (Parade shield)

Florence: Galleria degli Uffizi. Carlo Dolci, “Virgin of the Annunciation.”

Florence: Courtyard of Galleria degli Uffizi.

Florence: Palazzo Vecchio.

Florence: Piazza della Signoria.

We walked the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio, but did not go up. Selfie on the Piazza. Crossed the Arno over Ponte Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti, another superb museum, as well as brilliant residence from the times of the Lorraines and Napoleon. They rushed us out at the end, as it was closing time.

Florence: Along the Arno.

Florence: The apartment where Dostoevsky lived while writing “The Idiot.”

Florence: Palazzo Pitti.

Florence: Palazzo Pitti. Closing time.

I had a problem that made walking acutely painful and got worse the more I walked. We walked back to the river, and the Ponte Santa Trinita, and there caught a bus to the Stazione. We decided the walking involved in busing the rest of the way was too much, so we took a taxi. By far the most expensive day so far. But also the best food, best gelato, and best museums! Florence did not disappoint; it’s an incredible city.

60 Days in Europe: Day 9/ June 7

Posted on June 7, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 7, 2014 – Siena – Florence.

From my journal: We were up and ready early. Breakfast at 7:00. We walked to the old city, just inside the gate, and saw the Sanctuary of St. Catherine, the Campo Piazza, the Public (civic) Building.

I climbed the Torre – spectacular!

We sat in a ristorante on the Piazza and got some spaghetti.

Chalk Art, Italian Style. Siena.

Siena.

Sanctuary of St. Catherine, Siena.

View from Campo Piazza, Siena.

Campo Piazza, Siena.

The Doumo, Siena.

View from the Torre, Siena.

Duomo – View from the Torre, Siena.

The Torre & Public Building, Siena.

Campo Piazza, Siena.

Walked the Duomo, and self-toured inside.

The Duomo, Siena.

Siena.

Decorated vault, Siena.

We walked past San Domenico (closed) and caught a bus to the train station . Ran to catch the 2:00 and made it!

In Florence! Took bus #11 to the end of the line and unexpectedly walked a road that went right into a wooded area with no homes. Ten minutes later we reached the hostel, home to an important Florentine family – est. in the 1460s (the villa, that is) and reaching its current shape about 1700. Amazing.

The woods between our hostel and town, Florence.

Our hostel in Florence.

Restaurants were closed until 7:00 so we walked until we found an open kebab joint (The most prevalent fast food in Europe) where a Pakistani-Italian made us dinner.

Gelato Day 8: Right before taking the road back to the ostello. “I hope this is the worst gelato I ever eat.” It was the end of the week and the end of all but a few flavors. They sold us half tiramisu 😦 and half coffee :-).

About 6:30 walked back to the hostel, where an 8th grade graduation party was just starting at 8:00. At 10:30 it sounds like it’s still going strong. Eye shades and ear plugs tonight. 🙂 z z z z z z z z z …

60 Days in Europe: Day 8 / June 6

Posted on June 6, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 6, 2014 – Orvieto – Montepulciano – Siena.

Our room was actually a bedroom in a house. Our host set this table the next morning. ⇒

From my journal: We took a bus up to Orvieto and walked the town.

Orvieto.

Clock Tower, Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Clock Tower, Orvieto.

Orvieto.

Video: Getting some food at the deli in Orvieto, where Laura’s Spanish has limited success, but gets the job done.

We took the streetcar back, which dropped us right at the train station, where we took the train to Montepulciano.

Well, almost. The scala. It’s actually ten miles from Montepulciano. We realized that taking the bus to Montepulciano and back in time to catch the train to Siena would leave no time to see Montepulciano. We decided we would take the bus from M. to Siena directly, which would give us plenty of time.

This was a great little town, and worth the trip. Highlights: the views. the Fortezza, Palazzo, clock tower.

Montepulciano.

Gelato Day 7: On the way from Orvieto to M. we had to change trains in Chiusi. We found a “Cucina Cinese” which I don’t think had one Chinese item, but the two young people working the counter were Chinese-Italians, I think. We had a small cup with white chocolate (L) and biscotti (me).

We arrived in Siena and walked to hostel, unsure of our directions, getting there just four minutes ahead of the cut-off time. An old house (?) with 10 ft. ceilings and access from our room to a yard. After resting we walked through the gate (in the medieval city wall) – Porta Comollia – and had a drink on the small piazza there.

Porta Comollia, Siena.

Siena. “Fruits & Vegetables.”

Evening in Siena.

60 Days in Europe: Day 7 / June 5

Posted on June 5, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 5, 2014 – Rome to Orvieto.
From my journal: Arrivaderci, Roma!

Breakfast again at the hostel.
Poor night’s sleep owing to:
•A howling cat (Imagine microphone feedback from the Bowels of Hell. Reminder: find out what the deal is with cats in Rome.),
•late night revelers,
•music,
•and um…
The people next door were fully and noisily overtaken by the romance of The Eternal City.
Awkward.

First class train to Orvieto – 10:30. Rome is amazing and wonderful and we saw so much! If I were to spend more time here, I would hang out in the piazzas, and discover more. So much fun and life there. They have been an unexpected delight for me, and I look forward to more piazzas!

Arrived in Orvieto Scala (the modern town) about 11:30. Caught 12:55 bus to Civita di Bagnoregio. Before it came we dropped our packs at a hotel a few blocks away (per Rick Steves) for € 1 each. Then Laura bought us gelato from the train station cafe…

Gelato Day 6:
It was called Mochachino. At the first couple of tastes, I was underwhelmed, because the flavor seemed weak, but as endeavored to discern the mocha and the cappuccino, I began to appreciate the subtlety of the flavors. I am used to strong flavoring and most gelatos I have had so far are rich. So this may have been a poor gelato, or it may have been intentionally subtle, but i enjoyed it all the same.

Citvita was beautiful and amazing! Our first primarily medieval location, with remnants of its Etruscan origins.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoreggio.

Civita di Bagnoregio.

3:25 bus back to town (Orvieto), then another to our hostel – after rushing to fetch our packs. Our first (and one of few) private rooms. ♥.

The view from our room in Orvieto.

After checking in, we shared a pizza at a neighborhood place. While we were praying a man two tables away was watching us. We tried to do an Italian crossword puzzle on the paper place-mats. He came over and showed us a homemade flier, taking to us in Italian. We thought he was trying to sell us his personal driving services. it turned out he was asking us to correct the copy on his flier – the English was terrible. I re-wrote it and a bilingual woman at the next table translated it back into Italian for him. He was very happy. It was the first day of his new business.

60 Days in Europe: Day 6 / June 4

Posted on June 4, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 4, 2014. Rome.

From my journal: We had put in our itinerary for today a trip north to Cerveteri, to see the Etruscan necropolis, but decided instead to spend our last day here in the city. We had a leisurely start. Breakfast at the hostel, then the Metro and bus to the Via Appia Antica. As we proceeded down the road on foot (the wrong way, it turned out), we ran out of sidewalk and followed a sign to an info center. We never found it and ended up in a suburb, farther than we wanted to walk form the Via. Just as we were about to take a taxi, a bus came that got us to within a few minutes of the San Domitilla Catacombs at 1:15 – closed until 2:00, so we went on and found the San Sabastiani Catacombs. Wow. We loved this tour which, if anything, took us too swiftly through the underground cemetery.

Coming out, we proceeded down the Via, wanting gelato but not finding any to Laura’s liking (locally made). We probably walked 2-3 miles. When we came to a crossroads we caught a bus back to a Metro stop.

Along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

Mailbox along the Via Appia.

Along the Via Appia.

It turned out to be in Laurentia, where the gift shop lady told us the Tre Fontane Abbey was. With her directions we found it and visited the church which supposedly marks the spot of St. Paul’s martyrdom.

Tre Fontane Abbey

The Avenue, Tre Fontane Abbey.

San Paolo alle Tre Fontane (St Paul at the Three Fountains), Tre Fontane Abbey.

Mosaic pavement in San Paolo alle Tre Fontane (St Paul at the Three Fountains), Tre Fontane Abbey.

Tre Fontane Abbey

Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio, Tre Fontane Abbey.

Santa Maria Scala Coeli, Tre Fontane Abbey.

We returned to Termini, ate at Alfredo’s again (shared a pizza), and went to the hostel. After doing our laundry and getting some of our things ready to go, we went out for gelato.

Gelato Day 5: a chain store called L’Orso Bianco (White Bear). Okay, which means: pretty darn good. If I ever eat a bad gelato, stop the presses. We doubled up this time: Laura chose sour cherry; I chose dark chocolate. The latter was put on top of the former, and made a good combination.

Video: Rome III

60 Days in Europe: Day 5 / June 3

Posted on June 3, 2016 by Steve Dehner

June 3, 2014. Rome – Vatican City.

When it comes to museums, sometimes photos were allowed, often they were not. When they were permitted, usually getting a decent photo of a painting or something in a case was not possible because of low lighting or reflections. I took them anyway, because I wanted to remember what I saw.

From my journal: Late start. Breakfast down the street. Metro to Vatican City. Got into the Museum w/o standing in line, and 2 1/2 hours early.

Scuola Romana, “Il Profeta Mose,” 1120-30.

Melozzo da Forli, “Group of Angel Musicians, Groups of Cherubs and Apostles.”

Il Guercino, “S. Giovanni Battista.”

Carravaggio, “Deposition.”

Detail, Carravaggio, “Deposition.”

Wenzel Peter, “Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden.”

Statuette of Asklepios, God of Medicine, 3rd Cent. Roman Copy.

Hall of Statuary, The Vatican Museum.

The Belvedere Apollo, 2nd Century.

Laocoon.

Sala Rotunda.

Sarcophagus of St. Helena (Mother of Constantine).

Raphael, “Deliverance of St. Peter.”

The Gallery of Maps.

Sistine Chapel awed me. The hair was standing up on my arms. (No photos permitted.)

Then direct to St. Peter’s.

St. Peter’s Basilica

Swiss Guard, Vatican.

St. Peter’s Square

We started toward Castel Sant’Angelo, at a few blocks before. Nice walk along the Tiber under shade trees, to Campo de Fiore – Bruno statue, Piazza Farnese.

Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge, and Castel Sant’Angelo.

Castel Sant’Angelo

Campo de Fiore – Bruno statue

Campo de Fiore

Campo de Fiore – Bruno statue

Visited Forno bakery to get biscotti for morning. Coffee and tiramisu at Cucina Romana.

7:30 Piazza Navona – my favorite (piazza) so far! Lively and festive. Musicians, singers, beautiful building overlooking – fantastic! – See the video below.

Piazza Navona

Patheon – walked three quarters of the way around.

Pantheon

Pantheon, in the back where the kids hang out.

Fontana di Trevi – very crowded, stayed only briefly.

Fontana di Trevi

On to Gelato Day 4. Wonderful spot off the Fontana. My choice: Amaretto. Sweet old lady topped it off with something else – probably sweet almond. Best yet!